Clothing for Biyari in Manasollasa - Introduction
Biyari in Manasollasa - In 2004, the SCA India Yahoo group (Yahoo groups were cool back then), created a Pennsic feast for itself called a Biyari, this was the inspiration of several group members who came together to research and reenact a feast from a specific time and place. At that time Madhavi (now Mistress Madhavi), got inspired to create an amazing feast based on a text called The Manasollasa which was a treasure trove of information about food, dining, culture and much more. My recollection is that a huge amount of thanks should also go to Master Asim, and Mistress Meenaskhi. None of us were peers back then, but these years of collaboration and mutual inspiration is what got us all there.
In reading this, please keep in mind that the was at a time when the very wikipedia entry I just referenced would have felt fantastic to us - we had so little information!!
These are the notes for clothing from that feast. To the best of my knowledge, the pictures shown here are accurately dated, however, these pages are increasingly obsolete as we have many more online and published pictures from this era, and also far more research. I found in a trip in 2019 that in studying Hoysala era temples (in person!), we would often drift a bit into what could better be called Chalukyan. I hope (someday!) to update these pages with those notes. But in the meantime, there is still so little information for a reenactor, that I felt leaving this information up was a good thing to do.
Garb Primer
Introduction - so where are all the Chalukya Pictures?
...And why aren't they here? Pictures from this dynasty are few and far between. The Chalukya Dynasty is one of several kingdoms in Southern India between the 10th and 13th century. As a result, categories like "medieval South Indian" dredge up a variety of information, of which the Western Chalukya Dynasty is but a small part. The pre-eminent stars of this era are the Cholas. Chola religious art is exceptionally delicate and finely crafted - not to mention prolific. The Chola Dynasty is also bigger and longer lasting.
Another challenge is that there are two Chalukya Dynasties - the early, Eastern Chalukya Dynasty ends around the 8th or 9th centuries and is contemporaneous with the Gupta era and the Ajanta Cave paintings. Biyari is based in the later, Western Chalukya Dynasty, from the 9th to 12th centuries. These two eras are different enough in time that clothing and jewelry have changed quite a bit. When a caption says "Chalukya" there's no telling which dynasty it is.
So, why are you telling me this, Lakshmi? Basically as an excuse. The few Chalukya pictures I could dig up came from online images of temple sculptures. The best are what you see in this introduction. Most were not in good repair, and many of the images are low quality, making elusive details even harder to see. Not so great for the re-enactor. So, instead, I focused on a few neighboring kingdoms from the same or nearby periods - the Hoysala, the Chola, Chandellas and the Kakatiyas - kingdoms that existed in the modern states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and (rarely) Andhra Pradesh. The Chalukya Dynasty and the Hoysala Dynasty, occupy largely the same place, across different centuries. At the time, this was the best I could do, as Hoysala art was far easier to find. There is also a fair amount of Chola art - which was a necessary fall back to get better images with better detail. It was about this time that a massive exhibit on Chola Era art had come to the Cleveland Art Museum, making it far easier to do first person research on that topic.
Three more Chalukyan era paintings are below.
Clothing and Jewelry - Index
Men's Garments
- Clothing
- Jewelry
Women's Garments
- Clothing
- Jewelry
Women's Clothing
Wraps
Women and men's wraps are very similar in this era. For most part, they seem to be either some permutation of pants-drapes, and simple sarongs. The simple sarong can be seen in the Chalukya pictures - like the pair of ladies or the mithuana. This sarong is probably put on just like a modern one - 2-3 yards of cloth, wrapped around the waist two times. They may be secured by either the two upper corners tied together or by a belt. The figure on the right in the Pair of Ladies seems like she might have a heavy belt on. Asim also mentions that the shape suggests more play than one might have if one tied it. I'd second that from personal sarong experience. It's admittedly hard to tell whether it is tied or sewn.
The pants drape either worn long, as with Lakshmi and Mahamanasi, or they may be short, like Parsvanatha's attendant (see below). Images like the Srutadevi (below) suggest that there is a fishtail attached sometimes to the longer length form. The Lakshmi statue, as well, may have a fishtail hanging between her legs. I would suggest using the fishtail wrap instructions to do either form of this wrap. For a no-fishtail look - start with a 5-yard piece of fabric, wrap both sides with an equal length of fabric, and omit the fishtail. This would work best with a simple piece of fabric - the pallav of a regular sari would make one leg more ornate than the other. For the very short wrap, try a shorter width of fabric.
One final wrap that doesn't match the other is the wrap worn by the Sisters of Bahubali. This, as best I can tell, is the first example of what might be the Vijayanagara Era drape. I suspect the length of cloth is narrower.
Cholis
Cholis - form fitting, midriff length shirts - have caught on (at least in small part, in paintings) in the Hoysala region. The Cholis haven't caught on yet in the Chalukya Empire that I've been able to find. They are actually unisex garments - men wear them, too. I haven't yet found a back-view - the style of art is such that paintings always show front, or side views, and the statues aren't wearing cholis. They are worn by both goddesses and humans alike.
There are two commercial choli patterns - Folkwear's Southeast Asian Tops and Wraps and Fat Chance Belly Dance (sold by Folkwear). The Folkwear pattern is a classic modern choli - french hooks up the front, and a solid back. It also has many odd, curving shapes and darts - which means it's likely to be a modern construction. The Fat Chance Belly Dance Pattern is back tied, and is made for American Tribal Style belly dance. As such, there's no historic research behind it, but it does feature more rectangular shapes. Neither of these patterns is particularly optimal. I've had or heard of troubles understanding and fitting both of them.
There are also SCA patterns out there - Rashid's choli is the one I can currently find, but they come and go with time and authors. A great way to find current recommendations is to join the SCA India Unofficial Facebook Group which is reasonably active and their intro will include current recommedations. The easiest era to pattern tends to be the Mughal era, where it's easier to see the possible construction of a choli. Given the cartoonlike nature of the art of pre-Mughal Hindu paintings, it's nearly impossible to guess cholis differ from period or modern patterns. And, unfortunately, I have yet to find a choli in the completely amazing statuary of the same period (possibly because at least the god idols are actually dressed with fabric garments, so they are removable).
In Hoysala art, cholis are exceedingly optional - figures in the same image will be both topless and choli wearing. Cholis seem non-existent in the few Chalukya pictures, but often we hand wave and try to take the nearest plausible breast-covering option that will suit our modern senses of modesty.
Stanapatta
A stanapatta is a thin band that wraps horizontally around torso, going across each nipple. They are seen occasionally on Chola era statues. I haven't seen them yet in Hoysala or Chalukya statues. I've seen two styles of stanapatta - the gravity defying style that is a single band across the breasts and the shoulder strap style that has a band going over each shoulder. Near as I can tell, the second more "practical" style shows up around 1200. I'm not sure why it took over two centuries to figure out there was a gravity problem.
Men's Clothing
Wraps
Men's wraps are very similar to women's wraps. Men also wear sarongs - as in the Ring Picture. It appears to be 2-3 yards of fabric, wrapped tightly around the waist, and perhaps tied on with a belt. I think they are the same length as the female version (about 45"), but the ends are tucked up to the waist.
They also wear a pants drape either long, as with Brahma and Vishnu, or they may be short, like Dharanendra's drape. They may or may not have a fishtail hanging down the front of their garment - it's very hard to tell. I would suggest using the fishtail wrap instructions to do either form of this wrap. For a no-fishtail look - start with a 5-yard piece of fabric, wrap both sides with an equal length of fabric, and omit the fishtail. This would work best with a simple piece of fabric - the pallav of a regular sari would make one leg more ornate than the other. For the very short wrap, try a shorter width of fabric.
Clothing seems to be rather optional, though - Saint Sambandar (12th century Chola) seems to have no problem showing a little skin!
Cholis
Choli - form fitting, midriff length shirts - have caught on in the Hoysala region - even for men. Indeed, it is the only garment that men seem to wear in this era. Unfortunately, I've only found one man wearing a choli - Dharanendra the Yaksha. A yaksha is a tree spirit, a type of celestial being.
Unfortunately, there are no choli patterns for men. Since in modern day India, men don't wear them, the art of making a male version seems to have disappeared. I'd suggest investigate one of more rectangular cut women's cholis - such as Fat Chance Belly Dance (sold by Folkwear) - it's probably easier to adapt these to a lack of boobs than some of the others.
Women's Jewelry
Women and men wear so much jewelry it's hard to know where to start! I'll try to cover the main points, but I strongly suggest digging into some of the pictures and taking another look, in case I missed anything!
Necklaces
One necklace seems to be a necessity, but several are the status quo. Usually, there's one necklace that hangs between the breasts, and then several, heavier and more ornate necklaces that hang over the top of the chest. The long necklace can be a heavy chain, with many strands of beads and other ornaments, like Durga's, or a simple strand, like Durga's attendant.
I've found one instance of an actual pendant - in "Man Offers Ring..." - I may be reading too much into it, but it looks like a bead on a chain, to me.
The shorter necklaces are even more ornate. At their best, they are so numerous; they look like thick Egyptian collars. But they can be simple chains, or bands with some sort of doodad in the front. Sometimes I wonder if they might not be torques.
Another necklace worth noting is the necklace in the Lakshmi statue - it's an X-shape that hangs between the breast and under each arm. There's a connector in the happy valley, and in the same place in the back. Usually they are very simple - just a strand or two of pearls.
There seem to also be fancy shoulder doodads; you can see them on Lakshmi and on Mahamanasi. I have no idea what these are, but I think they are probably attached somehow to the necklaces.
Earrings
One of the most typical styles is stretched ear lobes. They seem to be a finger's length in diameter. Once stretched, circular bands are worn in the lobes - they may be hollow or have a solid center.
Obviously that's not an option for a one-night party! I've also found some earlier earrings from South India that look like they'd fit in a regular ear piercing. These are granulated metal with the most delicate figures in them.
Arm Jewelry
This is definitely a spot where you can be over the top - wrist bangles, elbow bracelet, and upper arm bracelets. The upper armband may tie on - modern ones do. I have no idea how you keep an elbow band on. I suspect it's just slightly higher than the bend in the elbow, where it's fleshy and padded enough to squeeze on. Wrist bangles are usually multiple - some are just thin bands, some are inlaid with pearls or ornamented with simple shapes like vines and geometrics.
Rings
Seems like any finger goes! Put 'em on all the digits and between the joints, as well. Rings are pretty simple - bands or inlaid with some spherical bead.
Anklets and Toe Rings
Anklets are a definite must. There are two main kinds - loose anklets that hang around the feet, and tight, probably stiff anklets that sit higher, on the ankles. It's hard to tell how heavy the higher anklets are - the Hoysala statues often have a very heavy feeling, all around, the weighty appearance of these anklets could be a factor of the artistic style. The looser anklets are probably some sort of string or chain.
Toe rings are an option, too. Tiny little rings of plain metal or some sort of bead.
Girdles/Belts
Not like the horrible things your grandma wore! I'm using girdle as a rather broad term for "really fancy thingy that goes on the waist". Girdles of this time vary widely, but most of them are very ornamented. The typical Hoysala girdle is a thick, ornamented - usually beaded - band. This band is then attached to many swags of more pearls, and other fancy beads. They may have long strands hanging from the swags or between them. For many styles of girdle, there's a long, very ornamented, wide band hanging down the center of the front of the body.
Another typical girdle is the Chola girdle on the Lakshmi statue. I've seen this more often with Chola, not ever with Hoysala. It looks like it might be more of a belt - many, many bands of a strip with repeating pattern. My guess is fabric - so it could be trim, or card weaving or some other type of brocade. There seem to be big bows on the hips (like I needed any help emphasizing my hips!) and there may also be another, smaller girdle of beads.
The Hoysala girdle has me totally stymied. Is it tassels? Fringe? Shreds of fabric? Chuthulu? I have no idea. There's definitely a spiffy belt on the waist, but I have no idea whether this ?skirt? is attached to, hanging off it, or whatever.
And what's with those random, gravity defying swags of ?stuff? floating around the figures? I have no idea. It's making me crazy - it's just random, gravity defying stuff.
Hair and Hats
In hats, you get the goofy saltcellar hat! I love these, and hope to make one someday. They are usually fairly ornate. Although some of the Chola ones are a little more subtle and toned-down. I've heard it mentioned that perhaps only deities get to wear these. I can't say for certain with this era - I've seen goofy hats on normal people later on in the Vijayanagara Era.
In hair, the big huge bun is a popular option. It sits at the base of the neck. It's up for debate as to whether it's skewed to one side of the head, or it's a weird type of perspective rendering in sculpture and painting. Around the faces some of the figures, you'll see little ringlets. It's my belief that these are stylized wispies of really curly hair. With some figures, it's hard to tell if a bun is what's going on or not. The celestial nymph has a tantalizing hair thingy, of which we can only see some swags and a few beads. I wish I had a better view of this!
Men's Jewelry
Necklaces
Necklaces are a big part of male ornament. They usually wear several shorter necklaces - which often look like heavy chains, beads or plaques of metal - the shape is usually quite circular.
Another typical ornament is the "sacred thread" which hangs over the left shoulder and under the right arm. This is usually a symbol of manhood, and is worn after a sacred thread tying ceremony when a boy becomes a man. It also a symbol of being one of the "twice born castes" - the warriors, priests or merchants. The lower servant class doesn't get to wear this thread. The threads can be fairly simple or they can be several strings of beads. Often the strings seem to be of different lengths so they hang at different points. They may also be collected in an ornamented clasp on the front of the chest.
Men also get this neat upper chest band. You can see it on Vishnu and Brahma. I believe it's a Chola thing. I have never seen a woman in this ornament, so I think it's a guy thing. I think Brahma's is clasped closed at the front.
Earrings
One of the most typical styles is stretched ear lobes. Men's earlobes seem to get even larger than women's. They may put large hoops or disks in the stretched lobe, or they may leave them open and hanging, or hang a small hoop as with the Khajuraho figure.
Obviously that's not an option for a one-night party! I've also found some earlier earrings from South India that look like they'd fit in a regular ear piercing. These are granulated metal with the most delicate figures in them. These are the same as the women's section, because there's no knowing what genders wore these.
Arm Jewelry
Too much is not a big concern - wrist bangles, elbow bracelet, and upper arm bracelets. The upper armband may tie on - modern ones do. Brahma's may well be a coil that is simply stretched and squished over the arm. I have no idea how you keep an elbow band on. I suspect it's just slightly higher than the bend in the elbow, where it's fleshy and padded enough to squeeze on. Wrist bangles are usually multiple - some are just thin bands, some are inlaid with pearls or ornamented with simple shapes like vines and geometrics.
Rings
Men's rings, compared to women's, seem simpler. Only thin bands, worn on basically any finger. Since they were so simple, I did not include any pictures here, although you can see them on a few of the images referenced here.
Anklets and Toe Rings
Anklets are an option. There are two main kinds - loose anklets that hang around the feet, and tight, probably stiff anklets that sit higher, on the ankles. The Vishnu image on the right has a particularly unique set of anklets - it seems like solid bands, not unlike some of the modern tribal bracelets out there. It's hard to tell how heavy the higher anklets are - the Hoysala statues often have a very heavy feeling, all around, the weighty appearance of these anklets could be a factor of the artistic style. The looser anklets are probably some sort of string or chain.
Guys aren't quite as into the anklet thing as the ladies. The Khajuraho statue, for example, has no foot ornament.
Girdles/Belts
I'm using girdle as a rather broad term for "really fancy thingy that goes on the waist". Girdles of this time vary widely, but most of them are very ornamented. The typical Hoysala girdle is a thick, ornamented - usually beaded - band. This band is then attached to many swags of more pearls, and other fancy beads. They may have long strands hanging from the swags or between them. For many styles of girdle, there's a long, very ornamented, wide band hanging down the center of the front of the body.
Another typical girdle is the Chola girdle on the Vishnu statue to the left. I've seen this more often with Chola, not ever with Hoysala. It looks like it might be more of a belt - many, many bands of a strip with repeating pattern. My guess is fabric - so it could be trim, or card weaving or some other type of brocade. There seem to be big bows on the hips and there may also be another, smaller girdle of beads.
Often there is a swag of something, hanging around the knees, and going up to hang over the arms. Is it part of the belt? I have no idea. In the male figures, this looks like a heavy chain or garland. In the female figures it is gravity defying.
Hair and Hats
In hats, you get two varieties of really tall hat - either a tall cylinder or a several tiered wedding cake sort of thing. Both are highly elaborate and wonderfully tall! In the Chola sculptures, the back of the head has ringlets of hair hanging down the back. They may be dreadlocks, they may be stylized wispies. They are usually very long - like a foot or so, if it was a real person. That suggests to me that male hair is pretty long.
Another style is the decorated pile of dreadlocks. The coils of hair on the figures on the right are probably piles up dread locks.
Men can, apparently, wear beards. In the figure above, it's done in a stylish knot. Most of the time, though, the men are clean-shaven. This is probably the one example I have of a guy with facial hair.